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    Re: Sextant on ebay
    From: hellos
    Date: 2006 Sep 7, 18:05 -0500

    Lacquer was always more of a high end finsih, I'd be willing to bet it wasn't
    used on a soviet sextant. And "real" lacquer isn't used much today, too much
    volatile content. Odds are the sextant is some type of baked enamel finish, and
    a primer for enamel, plus another enamel (Rustoleum, or Krylon) coat over it
    should do fine.

    Spraying it with anything is still going to get spray in the bearings, etc.,
    unless they are masked awfully well. I can't see this being a good idea unless
    the sextant is disassembled before painting. And even then...the paint will
    affect the resale value. (Give it a clever name like "PussyCat Pink, used by
    offshore houses of ill repute!" and you might even get more bucks for it on
    eBay. "Trump Blue, custom made for Donald Trump's Yacht." <G>)


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Bill" <billyrem42@earthlink.net>
    To: <NavList@fer3.com>
    Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:13 PM
    Subject: [NavList 1220] Re: Sextant on ebay


    >
    > Courtney wrote:
    >
    > > I hope I'm not wearing out my welcome....
    >
    > More like the exhausting the knowledge stored in my gray matter or paint
    > locker.
    >
    > > but, it being a Russian naval sextant, what would you assume
    > > they finished it with, say 25 yrs ago ?  Enamel, lacquer, or ??
    >
    > I believe lacquer was an automotive finish before enamel.  My historical
    > knowledge on when enamel went into common use is not good, but it has been
    > around for a long time.  At least 25 years.  It would be the choice over
    > lacquer for a sextant.  Ken of Celestaire would be your best source of what
    > was used when.
    >
    > > What would be the more durable in a marine environment ?
    >
    > Enamel would be my choice over lacquer for a sextant. (Note there is a
    > difference between furniture and automotive lacquer).  Ken of Celestaire
    > would be your best source of what was used when.
    >
    > If starting from bare metal today, perhaps a two-part epoxy, anodized or
    > electrostatic powder application?
    > >
    > > When you say 'good quality enamel' what's the difference
    > > between good and less so, chemically  ?
    >
    > No idea chemically.  A cheap enamel on a car might last a few years before
    > it starts to chalk.
    > >
    > > More generally, what makes up lacquer other than the alcohol
    > > solvent and some beetle stuff; and, what is the solvent and solute
    > > in enamels ?
    >
    > *Shellac* is ground up beetle stuff dissolved in alcohol.  I don't recall
    > (if I ever knew) what the chemical makeup of the lacquers, enamels, or
    > enamel thinners are.  Enamel thinner comes in different formulations based
    > on spraying conditions (temperature, humidity, and size of area to be
    > sprayed).  Some enamels can also be catalyzed for a quicker cure--almost a
    > must if you cannot bake it.  Solvent-based enamels come as "synthetic,"
    > Acrylic and God knows what else these days.  On the other hand Rust-Oleum
    > "enamel" is oil based.
    > >
    > > Pardon my ignorance and thank you for your patience,
    > >
    > Pardoned.  Short of hitting my library (which is out of date on automotive
    > finishes as the low-VOC/medium and high solids and clearcoat finishes evolve
    > at a rapid pace based on government pollution regulations) I would suggest
    > you do what I would have to do, start Googeling.
    >
    > Or visit a local automotive-paint supplier.  By the time you teach yourself
    > everything there is to know about paint to date it will be obsolete.
    > (Suggest a Ph.D. in chemistry to keep abreast.)
    >
    > Bill
    >
    >
    > >
    >
    >
    > --
    > No virus found in this incoming message.
    > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
    > Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.1/440 - Release Date: 9/6/2006
    >
    >


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