NavList:
A Community Devoted to the Preservation and Practice of Celestial Navigation and Other Methods of Traditional Wayfinding
Re: Lightning at sea
From: Courtney Thomas
Date: 2004 Oct 15, 14:21 -0500
From: Courtney Thomas
Date: 2004 Oct 15, 14:21 -0500
Phil, What exactly are you recommending be done to a cuising sailboat regarding the equipment sold by the two companies referenced, please ? Appreciatively, Courtney wrote: > George's ramblings are pretty much right on based on what I have > learned. I'd like to share some of my comments to his comments. > > > > > Because lighning strikes so randomly, it's hard to study it > scientifically. > > So there's still a lot of folk-wisdom and superstition, > > Actually lightning has been studied extensively and the knowledge > base is huge and all information points to that one can not predict > nor prevent it. > > > Don't consider me to be a pundit: in this field, there > > are none! Commonsense is what counts. > > > > Besides being crew on a racing sailboat (20 + yrs incl. Navigator) I > am also a licensed Amateur Radio Operator. I have four tall towers > with mulitple antennas at my home and am well versed and protected > against both direct strikes (rare) and induced voltages from nearby > strikes (very common). If one wants to learn more, I'd suggest the > following two websites. Polyphaser and ICE make the lightning and > grounding equipment that some of us hams and commercial stations use > to protect their gear. Remember that the police and fire dept, AM & > FM & TV stations don't disconnect in a storm. They systems must be > able to take the voltage and keep on working. Lot's of this info > can be applied to boating; you're surrounded by the perfect ground > and that's all lightning or induced voltage wants to do, is to get > to ground as fast as possible. > > > > http://www.polyphaser.com/ > > > > http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/ > > > >> > > The feeling you get when there's lightning about, and there's > just your > > sharp metal mast protruding above the sea with nothing else > about, is that > > if it's going to strike anywhere, it's going to strike that mast. It > > doesn't seem to work like that, though. We have frequently seen > strikes > > that have chosen to go straight down into the sea, perhaps no > more than 40 > > metres away, rather than go for our mast. Being a devout atheist, > I can > > hardly attribute it to divine intervention on my special behalf! > > > > No not divine intervention it's just that your mast is probably well > connected to ground and therefore your constantly bleeding off > static charge. Believe it or not, there's also a lightning bolt > that jumps up from ground to meet the sky bolt coming down. If your > "system" is bleeding off that charge buildup, then the another area, > maybe on the surface of the water, will have a higher potential to > ground than your mast and lightning will prefer that. Things get > real fuzzy on this subject but experience has proven it to be true. > > > > > > But if it's going to hit your boat anywhere, it's almost > certainly going to > > be the top of the mast. > > No necessarily, see above. > > If your mast is in Jove's sights, there's nothing > > you can do to stop it. The current will pass through your boat on > its way > > to the water. All you can do is to provide a path that will > create least > > damage. > > > > True, true. My towers are setup to constantly bleed off charge > but if they do take a direct hit, that energy will be shunted right > into the ground and away from my house and equipment. > > And within the metal cabin, there's no > > personal danger at all, except perhaps from cabling to the > masthead and > > pulpit. > > > > That's called the Faraday Shield effect, like staying inside your > car in a lightning storm. > > > > A fibreglass or wooden vessel is in quite a different category. > If we > > assume a metal mast, that's likely to be able to carry the > current from any > > lightning-strike without being damaged. But what happens at the > foot of the > > mast? If it's stepped at deck level, the current has to somehow > find a way > > across the insulating deck, and down the insulating hull-sides, > to the > > water . > > On the other hand, there's an inviting path from the masthead, down > the > > rigging-wires, and down the wet hull-sides, which bypasses the > insulation > > of the deck. The steel shrouds are likely to be burned out by the > > concentrated current flowing through a thin wire (just like the > element of > > an electric fire being subject to an overvoltage) if they carry > the whole > > current of a strike. > > > > All the boats I've sailed on have had the mast and/or the rigging > connections wired to the metal keel or the grounding plate built > into the hull of the boat. Don't all boats have this plate? An > alternate could be grounded to the prop shaft. > > > > My strategy is to encourage current-flow down the mast instead. I > do this, > > in an electrical storm under way or at anchor, by taking some > surplus > > length of anchor chain and draping it round the foot of the mast > and over > > the side into the water, in a number of loops. I have heard others > > pooh-pooh this idea, on the grounds that the many oxide-coated > surfaces > > between the links make a chain a rotten conducor. So they would, > indeed, if > > you measured it with a resistance meter. But the voltages in > lighting are > > so great that they will (in my estimation) break down and > spark-over such > > interfaces, and provide a useful current path. > > Yes, bad idea. Lightning will follow the path of least resistance > and the chain sounds like a high resistance path. Some energy will > leak this way but most "may" find another path to ground. > > > > Such a chain, under such > > high voltages, will not be following Ohm's law! > > > > > > Captain, you can't changes the laws of Nature!!! Ohms Law will > still be valid, period. > > > > > "I know of some sailors that will carry heavy duty automotive > jumper cables, > > and attached one end to the rigging? and let the other end drag > in the water > > when electric storms come up. Any feeling of whether this is > > safe/practical, or would help?" > > > > This sounds a little better than the chain. > > > > I think this would be a useful thing to do, probably better than > my chain, > > but not quite as Bill suggests, when he says "attach one end to the > > rigging". That's exactly what you are trying to avoid, providing > an easy > > path down the rigging wires. Attach it well, to the metal MAST. > > > > >> > > What about a keel-stepped metal mast on an insulating vessel? > That might be > > a bit of a worry, in my view, unless you have a metal keel, which is > > electrically bonded, through the hull, to the mast. It would seem > unwise, > > in my view, to make this bond via a keel-bolt, in that the last > thing you > > would want is to damage a structural keel-bolt. Unless you have > such a > > bond, then there's a great concentration of electrical stress at > the mast > > step, and it's easy to imagine how a severe strike could puncture > a hull > > there. > > > > > > > > ========== > > > > Protecting electrics. > > > > I doubt if there's any way to protect your masthead electrics in > the event > > of a strike. What about the rest? > > > > Just think about the negative 12-volt line that runs around the > boat, > > starting at the battery, linking one unit to another by a "ground" > > connection. Usually, that will be a heavy connector, with no easy > way to > > deliberately break or disconnect it. Consider (for example) the VHF > > antenna. The coax downlead has a a heavy outer conductor, which > may or may > > not be linked electrically to the metal masthead itself, but is > unlikely to > > be carefully insulated from it. When a strike occurs, it's likely > to reaise > > that coax to the transient voltage at the masthead, which could > be many > > kilovolts. This is fed down to the VHF transceiver, then through > its power > > supply to the battery negative, perhaps! the engine block, > propshaft, > > propellor, anode to the sea. Or perhaps to the sea via the > echosounder > > sensor, or the through-hull log, where the insulation is locally > weak. > > > > > > > What about the grounding plate built into the hull? I always > thought all boats had these. Good discussion though. One could use > some of those arrestors made by the companies (and there are other > companies I'm sure) mentioned in the web links above. > > > > Is it worth bothering, in an electrical storm? If you're near > home, losing > > your electrics may not be too serious; you just have to replace > it. On > > ocean passage, it could be another matter. > > > > > > > Isn't this why we all carry our sextant with us or at least a kamal > and timepiece 'cause one never knows when the electronics may fail! > > > > Many years ago, I was launching a dinghy from a ramp, when there > was a > > lightning strike into the water, perhaps 50 metres away. I was > holding the > > dinghy's rigging at the time, and felt enough of an electrical > shock to > > make me jump. Presumably, the low cloud base formed one plate of a > > capacitor, the land-and-water another, and the lightning had > instantly > > discharged that capacitor, to some extent. The rigging was > picking up some > > fraction of the sudden step in voltage gradient. It made me > think: if that > > rigging had been some sort of antenna for a receiver, that > voltage step, if > > it could more-than-tickle me, could easily destroy the input > stage of an > > amplifier. So perhaps it's not necessary for the boat to be > struck to > > suffer damage; a nearby strike may do the trick. > > > > > > Induced current and voltage from a nearby strike is a big problem > and the one that should be guarded against. It's what I worry about > in the ham radio towers and antennas. A strike a mile away can > induce enough voltage to zap out electronics. Personally lightning > hit and blew up a neighbor's tree. It induced over 30 amps of > current in the electrical wiring in my barn, located 300 ft away > (Blew a hole in the side of the 30 amp fuse protecting that > circuit.) My towers and antennas, as close as 200 ft. away, kept on > ticking without a scratch. Just my two cents. Phil Camera, > Lockport, IL > > > -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619